The art of eating sushi at Tsubaki

Japanese cuisine's emphasis on presentation, quality ingredients and thoughtful combinations of flavours make it a delight for refined gourmands. Michael Libucha reports that Tsubaki keeps the tradition of quality sushi alive in Ha Noi

One of Ha Noi's newest Japanese restaurants, Tsubaki serves up well-prepared sushi, quality sashimi and a wide range of meals from the Land of the Rising Sun that you may not find at other local Japanese eateries.

Tsubaki opened in April after chef and owner Nguyen Van Quy quit his job at another Japanese restaurant in town to launch his own business.

Delighting the senses: A serving of California sushi rolls and a selection of salmon, tuna and garoupa sashimi­ (different types of raw fish) at Tsubaki

When the head chef is also the owner of a restaurant, diners can expect that little bit extra in the quality and preparation of the food. Trained as an itamae (sushi chef), Quy says making and eating sushi is an art.

"Sushi is all about delighting the senses; that includes not only taste but also presentation – the colours of the dish must be in harmony along with the tastes and textures," says Quy. "The flavours can be sharp or subtle. Therefore, the quality of ingredients is very important."

The modest-sized three-level restaurant, which can seat up to 50 people, sources its fish from seafood markets at places such as Hai Phong and Nha Trang, or wherever Quy can get his hands on the freshest and best catches of the day.

During a recent visit to Tsubaki, I started my meal with a dish of tantalising sashimi – a type of sushi that is beautiful in its minimalism. It is simply raw fish served chilled and sliced, and elegantly arranged.

Quy says sashimi should be prepared with fish fresh from the water. Slicing the fish is a skill, as different fish must be cut in subtly different ways, and fish cut too thin or thick make a different impression on the taste buds.

That brings me to the art of eating sushi. The gracious waitresses at the bar suggested that I close my eyes while tasting the sashimi. This helps the mind to focus on the texture and flavour of the raw fish. A piece of sashimi has also been expertly cut so that it can be eaten in one bite, preferably slowly.

The mixed sashimi platter, at VND210,000 (US$10), includes salmon, tuna and garoupa slices – all melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Other sashimi plates include raw squid, octopus and a range of critters collectively listed as ‘sea shells'.

The next dish was a serving of California rolls (VND94,500), and just as I was about to pop one in my mouth, my waitress advised that I pause and take a sip of green tea. This is to clear the palate between eating raw fish and other types of food, so that the flavours of each dish are distinct. Good advice, as the avocado and fish roe flavours exploded in my mouth to my delight. There was more fish eggs to come in the flying fish roe salad (VND105,000), a refreshing dish that's popular during the summer.

A wide range of traditional nigiri sushi (the most common type of sushi) is on offer, including sushi with eel, shrimp and tuna and salmon belly.

Tsubaki's specialties include a grilled style of sushi, rice tea (an infusion prepared with tea leaves and grilled rice) along with udon and soba noodles, which are hand made at the restaurant.

The thick Japanese udon noodles made from wheat flour and the thinner soba noodles made from buckwheat are served hot or cold with a variety of toppings such as tempura (battered and deep fried seafood and vegetables) or in soups.

Another signature dish at Tsubaki that's difficult to find at other Japanese restaurants is natto, fermented soy bean that are also prepared carefully by hand on the premises (priced at VND52,500). While it's a bit of an acquired taste due to its strong fermented smell and flavour, it's filling and very healthy, being a rich source of protein and probiotics, live micro-organisms thought to be beneficial to the body. Natto is gooey in consistency with a nutty, savory and slightly salty flavour. This dish is usually eaten in Japan with some steamed rice for breakfast, and those who really want to jump-start their day can crack a raw egg over this fermented delicacy.

The menu also includes Japanese-style curries, pork cutlets and grilled chicken. For a Korean touch, try the stir-fried pork and kimchi (VND84,000) or for vegetarians, try the grilled aubergine, grated yam or range of salads, which include the nutritious seaweed salad.

Feeling full and satisfied, my last order was a small bottle of Estumo Hajime Sake, served so warm the waitress had to use thick muffs on her hands to pour me a shot.

Needless to say, it was a perfect and belly-warming end to a satisfying dinner.

The restaurant also offers a reasonably-priced take-away menu which includes lunch box sets of Japanese-style fried chicken, grilled fish and Japanese-style stewed pork with prices ranging from VND115,500 to 168,000.

Visit Tsubaki before June 20 and get 20 per cent off your bill. Diners who mention the Viet Nam News can also expect a free coffee and dessert during lunch or a free iced tea and dessert during dinner, while children get a free orange juice. — VNS

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Tsubaki

Address: 145 Thuy Khue Street, Tay Ho District, Ha Noi

Tel: 04 3728 2956

Hours: 10am to 2pm; 5pm to 10pm

Price: VND150,000 - 300,000

Comments: Quality sushi and other Japanese food at prices that compare well to other sushi bars in the capital city.