Mr Loi's beefsteaks never fail to satisfy

A Vietnamese journalist with an addiction to beefsteak, finds a welcome alternative to boiled rice and spring rolls in Ha Noi's Old Quarter. Thanh An reports.

Despite the fact that I was born an Asian girl, I am addicted to beefsteak. My love for this very Occidental dish originates in my general beef interest. Every time I am freed from work and fed up with cooked rice, I turn to beefsteak. Among the several restaurants inside the Old Quarter, Ong Loi (Mr Loi) Beefsteak is my favourite.

Located on Hang Buom, one of the city's oldest streets, the restaurant has a humble space, just like any house inside the Old Quarter zone. However, customers can find the restaurant by looking closely.

Meat the family: Located on Hang Buom Street in the Old Quarter, Ong Loi's restaurant is popular with families and couples. — VNS Photos Truong Vi

After walking through a 30m-long narrow lane and turning right at the end, I entered a two-floor old style house like those of the early 50s' last century. I could smell a hint of beef lingering in the air as well as the rushed atmosphere surrounding the places.

From what I saw of the home-like small restaurant, there were about 20 tables occupied by Vietnamese and Western guests. I chose a seat in the corner to enjoy a vivid cluster of roses nearby. As I suspected, the place was crowded, as it probably is all year-round.

It took a long time before the hot dish of beefsteak was carried to my table, but it was worth the wait. As my stomach called out, I chomped on a side of beef with joy. The softness and warmth of beefsteak covered in pasty sauce is what perhaps keeps guests around for so long. Fried potatoes and sliced bread for dipping are also placed on the dish.

The price, VND85,000 (US$4) per dish, is quite affordable for Vietnamese people.

Besides enjoying the food, I had a chance to chat with the cook, Nguyen Van Ninh. Ninh is the younger brother of Nguyen Van Loi, whose name was given to the restaurant. According to him, the restaurant opened in late 50s' and was the frequent destination of Ha Noi gastronomes. Loi was among people who first sold this Western dish at Hang Buom which made him stand out above all.

When Loi and his wife retired, Loi decided to sell beefsteak from his own house with his five children, who then took over the restaurant after his death.

Nguyen Thi Hang, a daughter of Loi's, says his children do not wish to expand the restaurant. They would rather continue to follow their father's steps out of respect for him.

"There were other beefsteak restaurants in Ha Noi at that time, but people favoured us for our like-no-other style. The secret for a delicious beefsteak lies in selected beef fillet and other additives. Most of all, we want it to satisfy guests," she says.

Roasted bird is also the speciality of Ong Loi's Restaurant. I always remind myself to order this dish, especially when the weather gets cooler. A hot seasoned bird, priced at VND85,000 ($4) per head, sliced into is yummy enough for enormous eaters, but perhaps not to be loved by vegetarians so much.

Most of all, I preferred a dish of bacon while waiting for the main course. At the centre of the dish lies a delicious piece of pate made from bird's liver. This little surprise made me love this place more.

"We've had pigeon liver pate on the menu since the beginning of the restaurant. Along with the beefsteak, we want to make our pate different from other places. This is how a restaurant stays in a customer's mind for a long time," says Hang.

She added that customers can order pate to take home if they want, with VND30,000 ($1.42) per 100g. The meal is suitable to serve hot with bread.

In addition to the main menu, some new dishes are available. You can enjoy roast chicken, VND75,000 ($3.5), or seafood soup, VND35,000 ($1.66).

When it comes to Lunar New Year holiday or vacations, you surely cannot find a seat inside this restaurant. Like the owners say, although it is located on one of the most attractive tourist places in the capital, there will be no second Ong Loi's Restaurant. "This business is kept in-house, and we will together preserve our father's brand name until we get older," Hang insists.

For a beefsteak-a-holic like me, it is nothing but a true pleasure to hear the owner's story and enjoy tasty beefsteak on a bright Sunday. In my mind, Ong Loi's Restaurant is one of Old Quarter's cultural values that helps beautify the city. I love to eat beefsteak like I love those old values of Ha Noi and never want them to fade away. — VNS

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Mr Loi's beefsteak restaurant

Address: 51 Hang Buom St (in lane), Ha Noi

Tel: 04 3825 1211

Hours: 5pm to 9pm (every day)

Price: VND30,000-85,000

Comments: Major at beefsteak and roasted bird. Also provides several kinds of soup. The space is a bit crowded and narrow.